The Czech Republic and Germany: Vogtland

celtic b-black white-01The term “Vogtland” refers to a region stretching across the German states of Bavaria, Saxony and Thuringia into the Czech Republic (north-western Bohemia and called Fojtsko in Czech).

The traditional costume of this region seems to have been influenced greatly by those found in the neighbouring regions of Upper Franconia and southern Thuringia. The heyday of such traditional costumes was until 1850, though there was no uniform style in Vogtland. This is most probably due to the individual taste of the seamstresses and tailors as well as the little choice in the materials available and the utility of these clothes. The colours of the old Vogtland costumes are mainly dark (brown, dark red, dark green and violet) and its style is not particularly flamboyant in comparison to other forms of traditional costume.

Women’s costume

Fringed shawl tucked into the apron
Fringed shawl tucked into the apron

The skirt is made of a silky patterned material. Underneath are 4—5 short petticoats (Reichnbächer) with many gathers to give a full figure. An apron is worn over the skirt and is also made of silky patterned material. The apron is tied with very long silk ties tied in a bow. Both women and girls wear blue or white stockings with buckled shoes. Young women and girls wear a velvet bodice, with a colourful shawl (Busentuch) closed at the neck with a pin. Older women wear a short bodice made from quilted material (Spenzer). White blouses with short, wide puffed sleeves are worn under the bodice.

Buckelhaube showing the black lace sides and the embroidered Haubenfleck  at the back
Buckelhaube showing the black lace sides and the embroidered Haubenfleck at the back

Young women wear a dark scarf with brightly coloured corners and long fringes tied around their heads. The corners of the scarf are tied in a large bow on top of the head so that the fringes fall over the forehead. Married or older women wear a bonnet, the so-called Buckelhaube, on the back of their heads. The sides of the bonnet are made of broad black lace and a number of dark silk ribbons hang down from the bonnet. The back of the bonnet is formed by a very valuable highly embroidered piece of material, the Haubenfleck or “Die Schau”. It is decorated with glitter and the embroidery is often done with real gold. Long silver or gold ear-rings are often worn.

In southern Vogtland and the area around Asch (Aš) and Hof in the Czech Republic, instead of wearing a Buckelhaube, the women wear a bonnet on their heads around which a black fringed scarf is wound. Girls wear their hair combed back from the forehead and tied in a bun, while older women have a sort of nest at the back of their heads which is held in place by a double-pointed arrow made of horn. Ringlets are curled at each side of the temples (so-called Schneckenhäuseln: little snail shells). Adult women had to wear a bonnet, while girls wore a scarf with a bow over the forehead.

Adult women had long bodice and skirt ensembles, whereby the gathered skirt was very full. They wore a white blouse with half-sleeves. Most important was a shawl with fringes and an apron with long decorative ties. Whoever could afford one wore a short jacket (Spenzer) with a collar and leg-of-mutton sleeves.

Men’s costume

Men wear long or knee-length trousers made of leather or woven cloth. The outer part of the cuff of the knee breeches is open and tied with a strap, which also holds up the white or blue socks. The shoes are made of cow leather and have a large brass buckle or the men wore long boots. The silk or velvet waistcoat is decorated with either colourful stripes, flowers or check patterns and has many buttons. The shirt is made of coarse handmade linen (Leimet) and has a broad unstarched collar which lies over the waistcoat. A colourful silk or cotton scarf is worn around the neck. A coat or very long jacket (worn only on Sundays or official holidays) is used made of black or blue material and has large buttons. A cloth cap with a large peak (De Dachmitz) is worn on the head.

Source(s) of information

http://www.echt-vogtland.de/schweiz/schweiztracht.html

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vogtland

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vogtland

http://www.alte-kiehvotz.de/berichte/vogtlaendische-trachten/

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