Front view
Front view

General description: Young unmarried woman in traditional dress from the Dalmatian coast, most probably Konavle.

Dimensions 32.5 x 22 x 9 cm

Date when acquired 2000s

Original Date Unknown

Source Flea market in Bochum area. Present from Fritz

 

Back view
Back view

Body

Plastic with movable arms and legs. The facial features are painted.

Styling of the hair
1) Styling of the hair

Her black hair is parted in the middle and drawn back to the back of her head, where it is plaited into two plaits. These are woven together over the back of her neck to form a sort of bun. This hair style is typical of the region.

 

Side view
Side view

Clothing

She is wearing a long white long-sleeved linen dress (košulja) with woven braid around her cuffs and neck and on her bodice. The braid is multi-coloured with a pattern of stripes. Around the cuffs, it is basically a reddish brown in white, blue, brown and yellow and red. Over the front of the dress, it is basically red with orange, green, yellow, purple and white.  In the middle of her bodice at the bottom of the braid is a large tassel made of yellow wool.

Over the dress she is wearing a long white, more coarsely woven, pleated linen apron (ogrnjač or pregjača) with a wide woven border in stripes of browns, blues, white, fern green, yellow and orange. The apron is folded into the four lengthwise folds typical of this region.

She has a broad brown sash (tkanica) around her waist with a long piece of narrow woven braid tied over it, typical of the two sashes worn with this style of costume. The under sash is very stiff sash so stiff that it cannot be tied or tucked in. A narrow silk ribbon is therefore tied over the sash to hold it in place.  The ties are hanging down on the right side of the body.

She is wearing a bolero-style jacket (jačerma) in black felt and decorated around the edges with looped gold braid and around the armholes in old gold braid.

Under her dress she is wearing a long white cotton petticoat (skutici), long white stockings (bječve) and over these a pair of white cotton harvesters (pantaloons to her knees). On her feet are a pair of red half-shoes made of plastic.

She is wearing a flat red felt brimless cap (bareta or crvenkapa) with a border of single-looped gold braid, typical of the unmarried women of this region.

 

 

Edge of bag showing weave
Edge of bag showing weave

Accessories

She is wearing round gold ear-rings decorated with flowers and four little loops.

Over her left shoulder is a bag woven in the colours of the braid of her dress. At each corner are black and red woollen tassels and the woollen strap has been plaited from the same wool.

 

Woven panel at bottom of skirt
Woven panel at bottom of skirt

Background information

This doll comes from the Dalmatian coast, most probably Konavle, a small region located southeast of Dubrovnik. However, she is wearing a dress and petticoat rather than the dress (košulja), petticoat (skutici) and chemise (privlačak) combination usually worn. The basic colour of the embroidery on these costumes is not brown as on this doll but is done in red and black with some addition of yellow, blue and green as accents. Yellow braid is sewn around the embroidery panels on the front, but are lacking in this costume. This doll has a single yellow tassel on the front of her dress but normally there is a yellow tassel sewn onto the back of each cuff, and three yellow tassels are sewn onto the lower part of the front. All of the panels are embroidered separately and then sewn onto the dress.

Her pillbox-style cap indicates she is unmarried as married women wear a white material headdress.

Married woman wearing a white headdress with three unmarried women in caps
2) Married woman wearing a white headdress with three unmarried women in caps

The woven shoulder bag is very similar to the one beloved of hippies (boho bag) that was so popular in the 1960s and 1970s and which I saw being sold in Greece at that time.

Source(s) of information

See Croatia: General information

Sacha Lethborg: yugoslavianfolkdolls@gmail.com

http://folkcostume.blogspot.de/2011/10/costume-of-dubrovnik-county-konavlje.html

Pictures

1) Hair style – http://folkcostume.blogspot.de/2011/10/costume-of-dubrovnik-county-konavlje.html

2) Married woman wearing a white headdress with three unmarried women in caps – http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YBF_991FZ2U/TqXiwXjqoHI/AAAAAAAABsA/NuPNlgsW4Ac/s640/1957.jpg

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